This article first appeared in My Travelogue by Bhushavali
ONE DAY IN CHARLEROI TRAVELOGUE
I've visited Charleroi so many times, but only for the
Brussels South Charleroi Airport where all the low-cost carriers
including most Ryan Air flights operate from. Everytime I boarded or
alighted a flight here, the thought of visiting the city for the sake of the
city, kept returning. Plus, I did have a major motivating factor too - the
presence of Bois du Cazier coal mine -
a UNESCO World Heritage Site. So here's more about Charleroi, the city, and whether is it worth
visiting Charleroi.
That's the funny thing. For more than a year I pronounced it Charleroi,
like how you'd pronounce it in English - Charle-roy. That's how the other
airports also pronounced it when mentioning their destination in
announcements. BUT THEN....... the local language is French. '***oi' in
french is always pronounced '***wa', may it be any word that ends with 'oi'.
For eg., 'your' in french is 'toi', pronounced 'twa', 'law' is 'loi',
pronounced 'lwa' etc....
Hence, Charleroi is correctly pronounced correctly as
'Charl-rwa'.... 'Roi' literally means 'King' in French and Charleroi literally means King
Charles.....
CYCLING IN BELGIUM - CHARLEROI
The reason why I didn't proactively head to Charleroi was because, I
wanted to visit Aulne Abbey too on the day and it was a bit too far
without regular bus connectivity. Buses to Aulne Abbey from Charleroi are
called ABBA (yes, I'm serious! Bus doesn't have a number, but has the word
ABBA). They operate only in summer. Unfortunately this summer, thanks to
Covid, that too didn't operate in June/July. Then came the idea, (and the
thought of why was I so stupid to have not gotten this idea earlier) -
Biking!
Also Read: Other splendid biking routes in Belgium - Cycling through Water in Limburg, Cycling between borders in Vennbahn, Vineyard biking route in Flemish Brabant, Biking in and around Durbuy, Cycling from Bouillon to Tombeau de Geant
I hired an electric bike at Charleroi Railway station's Velo Point
and got to include Aulne Abbey too in my one-day itinerary on this
day-trip from Brussels to Charleroi.
Where is Charleroi Sud Velopoint (On Google Maps): Charleroi Sud Velopoint
BOIS DU CAZIER COAL MINE
There are 4 historic coal mines in Belgium that are listed together under
UNESCO as Major Mining Sites of Wallonia. The other 3 are
Grand Hornu,
Blegny Mine,
Bois du Luc. The 4 mines were selected to play a particular role - Grand Hornu for its
architecture, Blegny Mine for its know-how, Bois du Luc for its social life,
and this Bois du Cazier for its Memory...
BOIS DU CAZIER COAL MINE - 8th AUGUST 1956 MEMORIAL
This site has been functioning as a coal mining site since the early 1800s. Like
every other coal mine in the region, this too was one of the primary
employment-generating industries with people from Italy, Algeria, Hungary,
Russia & more. On 8th Aug 1956, as usual, 275 men descended the mines.
However, unfortunately, electric cables ruptured which caused a fire inside the
mines, which also released smoke & carbon monoxide. While the main shaft
was in fire, the other shaft was pretty much useless and rescuers tried to
dig another shaft to reach the trapped miners. Despite the efforts to rescue
them from the surface, nothing really helped. 262 of the 275 were killed of
whom, 136 were Italians!!! This is the most depressing, disastrous tragedy
in the history of Belgian mining. Today the mines are left as they are for
us to understand the work environment including their lanterns, badges,
uniforms, shower-rooms etc and majorly as a memorial for the lives lost.
Very many Italians visit Bois du Cazier to date to pay their homage.
BOIS DU CAZIER - INDUSTRY>
&
GLASS MUSEUMS
Apart from the Museum of the Bois du Cazier coal mine & its memorial
Espace 8 Août 1956, there are 2 other museums on this premises - the
Industry museum and the Glass Museum. Industry museum deals with the history
of industry in Wallonia region since ages ago till now. There's also a small
movie that reels from ancient history through coal mining to the modern STEM
industry in Wallonia, Belgium!
Where is Bois du Cazier Coal Mine? On Google Maps - Bois du Cazier Coal Mine
How to reach Bois du Cazier Coal Mine from Charleroi Sud SNCB? LeTEC Bus route 1
Bois du Cazier tickets: €8 (included in Museumpassmusees)
Bois du Cazier opening hours: 9:30AM to 11:30AM and 1:30PM to 4:30PM
CAROLO STREET ART TOUR (Update Nov 2021)
I visited Charleroi again recently (esp. to visit Thuin & Labuissiere this time), and this time I took half a day to just explore Charleroi. Charleroi has a street art tour map called Carolo. Since I was at the Charleroi Tourism Office, at Place Charles II, my first stop was no: 10, Le Parvis des Enfants by Madame La Belge & Atelier M Belgique, which was just beside a school. The colourful, happy, childish art was a super hit for Atyudarini and she went and hugged the pole that had a unicorn on it! We walked all around it, stopping at each and every artwork and then got into the Parc metro station which is dedicated to the cartoon character Lucky Luke. Then we walked southwards towards the railway station and stopped at all the murals on the way. Unfortunately, this meant, we missed 4 murals that were in the northwestern direction.
Atyudarini's most favourites have to be the Smiley faces (no:17) and the humongous 'little' red riding hood (no:1)! My favourite was Sozyone Gonzalez's Imaginary Gangster (Gangster fantasmé et Belle Epoque - no:19). I could immediately recognize the artwork because of his unique style which he used also on his mural of a Crow near Docks Brussels!
Where is Charleroi Tourism Office (on Google Maps) - Maison du Tourisme du Pays de Charleroi
Carolo Street Art Tour Map: via Charleroi Tourisme
How to reach Charleroi Tourism Office from Charleroi Sud SNCB? 1km (14 mins walk)
CHARLEROI BELFRY (Update Nov 2021)
On the second trip to Charleroi, I went first to Charleroi Tourism Office to pick up the Carolo Walking Tour map and just steps away from here is the Belfry. Like the belfries in Brugge, Mechelen, Namur, and more, Charleroi Belfry is also one of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites of Wallonia. Unfortunately, it isn't open to the public to just walk-in. It is currently the City Office of Charleroi and the Belfry can be climbed only as a part of the 'Ville Haute Charleroi Guided Walking Tour' at Charleroi Tourism Office which is a Guided Group Tour. Unfortunately, I hadn't pre-booked it and all I got to see was the mighty tower from outside.
Where is Charleroi Belfry (On Google Maps) - Beffroi de Charleroi
How to reach Charleroi Belfry from Charleroi Sud SNCB? 1km (14 mins walk)
CHRISTOPHE CHURCH (Update Nov 2021)
St.Christophe Church is located just opposite the Charleroi Tourism Office. The church was originally built in 17th C CE, but the current architecture belongs to 1955. The altar is so golden filled with mosaic work, reminding me much of Byzantine art. In fact, the artist was indeed inspired by Byzantine art. It is huge but relatively plain apart from the altar. There's a dome atop and it is also possible to climb this dome as well, but that too is a part of the 'Ville Haute Charleroi Guided Tour'. Again, unfortunately, I missed it!
The foundation stone of the original architecture is on display close to the entrance of the church with the year 1667 and Fleur-de-Lys design. The oldest part of the church is the choir that dates back to 1722. The Tabernacle dates back to 1693 and is from Aulne Abbey (Thuin Abbey). The wooden sculpture of St.Christopher needs a special mention and it possibly belongs to 15th C CE and came from the historic Chapel of Charnoy! Charleroi derives from Charnoy!!!
Where is Christophe Church (on Google Maps) - église Saint-Christophe de Charleroi
How to reach Christophe Church from Charleroi Sud SNCB? 1km (14 mins walk)
RAVEL BELGIQUE
After visiting Bois du Cazier, I headed off to Aulne Abbey along the Sombre river. This path is a part of the biking/horse riding paths all over Wallonia called the Ravel. Entire Wallonia has several way-marked paths and this path here is a part of EuroVelo3. This entire distance is 21km beginning at Charleroi Sud till Thuin village. The Aulne Abbey is located 8km before the Thuin village.
INDUSTRIAL HERITAGE OF CHARLEROI
& GRAFFITI
ON THE BANKS OF RIVER SAMBRE
This path is unique! Its something that I've never experienced before.
There's the innate beauty of the river Sambre and the harsh industrial
structures jutting out in all directions! It is a weird
combination. At a very short distance, after I got into the Ravel path, the graffiti
began. Now it was all the weirder with impeccable graffiti, beautiful
nature and old & harsh industrial structures!!!
The 700m long wall graffiti here were made in 2002 as a part of the
Urban Dream Festival to convert this area as an
open-air street-art museum! Further ahead, very close to
the Marchienne-au-Pont metro station is a mirco-mini
cable-stayed bridge. Very close to it is the
steel railway bridge. Then ahead is the Pardon Monument which
symbolizes navy, water shipping and recreational sailing together. Further
ahead is a tiny bridge on which the Ravel path continues.
Further ahead is the face of Charleroi's Industrial Heritage -
Power Plant IM! When this was built in 1921, it was the largest coal-burning power plant in the whole of Belgium. It was shut down in 2007 and
today it is a strong reminder of the industrial heritage of the country! It
is even possible to go inside the tower as a part of some local walking
tours. I, however, didn't venture inside this!
Where are Power Plant IM & Ravel Graffiti Wall? On Google Maps: Graffiti wall, Power Plant IM,
THUIN ABBEY (AULNE ABBEY)
After the Power Plant IM, there was a diversion in the Ravel path and I had
to go through the regular roads and finally I reach the Aulne Abbey. Almost
close to the abbey, I was back in the Ravel and the views here was just
exquisite. It was so peaceful. There were quite a few locals, fishing along
the banks. That looks like such a peaceful life!
Finally, I was at Aulne Abbey! It was founded in 637 CE by St.Landelin. By 9th
C CE, it became a part of the Bishop of Liege. The current structure was built
in early 13th C CE under the abbots Gilles of Beaumont and Baudouin of
Chatelet. Unfortunately, during the French revolution under Napoleon Bonaparte
the abbey was pillaged and torched!
ALSO READ: Other things to do in Thuin & Labuissiere
Today the abbey is completely in ruins, but very picturesque. As soon as you
enter, there's the huge courtyard and to the right is the cloister. A path to
the left, through a well-preserved facade, led to the most picturesque area -
the ruins of the Chapter house, Sacristy and dormitories. Unlike Viller's
Abbey, here it is not allowed to go inside the ruins, but only till a point
where there are barricades to protect both the architecture & us!
Thuin Abbey (Aulne Abbey) tickets: €4
Thuin Abbey (Aulne Abbey) hours: 10:00AM to 5:00PM
Where is Thuin Abbey (Aulne Abbey) - On Google Maps: Aulne Abbey
How to reach Thuin Abbey (Aulne Abbey) from Charleroi: Aulne Abbey is located almost at the midpoint between Landelies and Hourpes metro stations and the abbey is about 2.5 to 4km from either station! The seasonal ABBA bus that I mentioned above is a good way to reach there if it is functioning (it mostly functions only on the weekends of summer holidays every year - check timings on the website of TEC). If not, the best way to head there is either completely by cycle or by carrying the cycle in metro till Landelies and then biking along river Sambre. The path that connects Charleroi to Thuin along the river Sambre can be found on the website of Ravel network.
DAY-TRIP TO CHARLEROI FROM BRUSSELS VLOG
PLACES TO SEE & THINGS TO DO IN CHARLEROI
What to do in Charleroi when you have.....
Few hours (before you board your flight) Option 1: Visit Bois du Cazier coal mine
Few hours - Option 2: Indoor Skydiving Charleroi
Few hours - Option 3: Walking tour of the Industrial Heritage/Street Art of Charleroi
Half day itinerary: Visit Bois du Cazier coal mine + indoor skydiving
(or) Charleroi Belfry & BPS22 art museum.
One day itinerary with bicycle: Visit Bois du Cazier coal mine,
walk/cycle along the Sombre river on the Ravel path, see graffiti & Power
plant IM, visit Aulne Abbey
One day itinerary with car: One-day itinerary with bicycle as above +
see Thuin Belfry and walk through the Hanging Gardens of Thuin
HOW TO REACH CHARLEROI FROM BRUSSELS
From Brussels to Charleroi on road: 63km
SNCB-NMBS Train to Charleroi Sud from Brussels Central/Midi/Noord runs
regularly and the journey time is 1:15 hours.
Charleroi has a Metro line as well as buses & tram and it is possible to
reach all these places easily by public transport, except Aulne Abbey.
HOW TO REACH CRL AIRPORT FROM CHARLEROI SUD
Charleroi Sud Railway station to Charleroi Brussels South Airport - TEC buses
are available every half-an-hour from 4:30AM to 11:00PM. Taxis are also
available. The distance is about 14km and journey time is about 20 minutes.
CHARLEROI HOTELS
Since I visited Charleroi on a day trip from Brussels, I don't have a personal review of any Charleroi Hotels. On my 2nd visit to the region, I stayed at Au Crapaud Charmant in Labuissiere when I explored Thuin on one day and Labuissiere & Charleroi on 2nd day. If you're only in Charleroi, this may not be suitable.
Read the review of Au Crapaud Charmant
Hotels near Charleroi airport: Aero 44, Ibis budget, Park Hotel Charleroi
Hotels in Charleroi city centre (near Charleroi Sud railway station): Ibis Charleroi Centre Gare, Novotel Charleroi Centre, Auberge de Jeunesse (Youth Hostel)
Luxury Hotels away from Charleroi city: Villa Geva, Le chateau des eglantines, L'Auberge de L'Abbaye (located beside Aulne Abbey)
I have spent only one day in Brussels several years ago and really enjoyed the city. I have always intended to return. I had not heard of Charleroi. Checking the differences in the lanterns at the old coal mine would be interesting. I think the Aulne Abbey would be my favorite stop. The ruins look well preserved and the façade would be fun to photograph. It sounds like this could be done as a day trip with an early start, thank you for the idea
ReplyDeleteLoved the place, Amazing pics.
ReplyDeleteStay Safe.
I have always wanted to go to Belgium, and this guide is gonna be so useful when I do. thank you also for the pronunciation guide, that’s quite helpful. all of the ancient architecture looks so storybook perfect. I can’t wait to see it all.
ReplyDeleteCharleroi has been on my list for a long time. I'd like to see this charming city. Your post convinces me to visit Belgium finally. The Bois du Cazier coal mine - a UNESCO World Heritage Site is such an exciting place. But most of all I would love to photograph Aulne Abbey with all this greenery on the walls.
ReplyDeleteSo good that you finally got to t visit the city after using it as a flight base so many times. I love that the city has electric bikes for rent. Gives you so much more range to explore! How great that you got to explore the Aulne Abbey along the Sombre river on your visit as well. I always find abbey ruins like this with just walls standing to be amazing. A sure testament to the building skills for sure.
ReplyDeleteSo, my guess, the coal mine is under UNESCO because of the tragedy? But what caught my attention was the number of coal miners from Italy since at some old coal mine I visited in the U.S., most of the miners were also Italian. The Aulne Abbey is beautiful, or picturesque like you said, even though it's just the ruins now that visitors can see. We can imagine its beauty from centuries ago. I think a visit to King Charles is worth it.
ReplyDeleteHi Umiko,
DeleteWell, there are 4 mines listed together under UNESCO each for one different reason and yes, this one is because of the tragedy!
Haven't been to Brussels yet, so found this article quite interesting. The things that i found the most helpful were your suggestions for things to do in Charleroi, in a certain period of time. As this is where the cheap flights fly from, i'm going to make it a point to have a stopover in such a way, that gives me time to explore the city at my own pace.
ReplyDeleteYou always bringing us to many beautiful places, and I like it! This old abbey is very interesting and so much story to tell. Stay safe always but of course enjoy short trips!
ReplyDeleteYou always showcase some unique and hidden treasures of Europe which I have never heard before. Though you have visited Charleroi so many times, but for me it is the first time, I am hearing this city and also loved reading about it through your blog. This town looks little industrial and also have some old ruins. I have never seen coal mine before and it is good that this city has 4 historic coal mines. I would atleast try to visit Bois du Cazier coal mine. Also this city has beautiful and huge wall art.
ReplyDeleteCharleroi seems to be a hidden gem with so much to explore, Aulne Abbey seems to be definitely
ReplyDeleteWorth a visit even though in ruins, your description of it so impactful. I have only been to Brussels for a short trip, would like to explore nearby towns on my next visit for sure. The Bois du Cazier coal mine makes for a compelling history although has a tragic past to it.
Charleroi definitely looks interesting! I would love to explore the industry museum and look into the history of industry in Brussels. Another place that caught my interest is Aulne Abbey. I can see myself biking around this quaint area. Thanks for sharing the post.
ReplyDelete