This article first appeared on My Travelogue by Bhushavali
MODENA TRAVEL GUIDE
THINGS TO DO IN MODENA IN ONE DAY
My this particular trip was one of the very last Italian trips I took before
moving out of Europe. Thanks to Emilia Romagna Tourism, the trip was to cover
as many UNESCO World Heritage Sites as possible in the Emilia Romagna region;
plus one special site - the country of San Marino. The trip began with a Ryan
Air flight from Brussels to Bologna. As soon as I got off the flight at
Bologna, my first stop was Villa San Donnino in the outskirts of Modena. So
here's my travel guide to Modena of the things to do in Modena in 1 day.
.JPG)
Authentic Balsamic Vinegar aging in barrels at Acetaia Villa San
Donnino
.JPG)
Torta delle Rose from Antica Pasticceria San Biagio
Sciocola Chocolate Festival in Modena
First of all, learning about Balsamic Vinegar is the fist thing I did. I mean,
I realized, I hadn't been tasting Balsamic Vinegar all these years whenever I
thought I was - it was never the authentic!
The original Balsamic Vinegar comes from Modena. It is also a geographical
indication and only the Balsamic Vinegar manufactured in Modena, can be called
so. While the origins of Balsamic Vinegar is unknown, it has been around
atleast since the 16th C CE.
How is Balsamic Vinegar Made?
The process of making Balsamic is quite similar to the process of making wine.
Here too, grapes are smushed and let to ferment in wooden barrels. Unlike
wine, here, they prefer is the grapes are more ripe and has more sugar
content. Then the Grape juice is cooked at about 85 C for a couple of days,
which lends it the black color! This cooking caramalizes the sugar content in
the juice. Once cooled, it is aged in wooden barrels. In the case of Balsamic
Vinegar, it is aged for atleast 12 years during which, the mild alcohol that
gets produced automatically due to fermentation, the bacteria in it convert
the sugar to acetic acid which gives it, its distinct color &
flavour.
Usually in the case of the production of Balsamic Vinegar, it's not a typical
barrel like a wine barrel, but a set of 5 barrels in different sizes - the
smallest ones can be very very tiny, like just 15cm in diameter. The wood of
each barrel in a set, like Oak, Chestnut, Cherry, etc, can be different to add
a mix of aroma & taste; traditionally atleast 2 barrels should be of a
different wood in a set. The cooked grape juice is filled in every barrel of a
set, but not fully. This is then left open to let it evaporate. However the
prevent dust & dirt from entering the barrel, those are kept closed with a
piece of cloth. By the time summer gets over, 10% of liquid in each barrel is
already evaporated, thanks to heat as well as fermentation of sugar to acetic
acid in this micro-climate!
Then, in winter, the next important step takes place. The lost 10% of the
smallest barrel is refilled with the liquid of the 2nd smallest barrel and it
goes on. The smallest one is called the Queen Barrel, since it's the most
important one! The biggest barrel is now left with a major empty space which
is refilled with the freshly cooked grape juice of that year. This is repeated
for atleast, 12 years before the contents of the smallest barrel is taken out
& packed; it can be kept for a longer time-period also! So, the smallest
always contains the oldest liquid, making it the most expensive!
.jpg)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.jpg)
caramalized sugar oozing through the tiniest cracks of historic
barrels.
.jpg)
The original sets of barrels that were in the Villa when it was bought by
the current owners.
The Geographical Indication certification came into existence in Europe,
called DOP (Destination of Production) in the 1990s. Nowadays, there's a
consortium that checks & certifies the DOP of each production. After 12
years, atleast, a bit is taken from the Queen Barrels and is sent, where it's
checked for 75 criteria to fulfil the DOP. Once approved, it is bottled. The
shape & size of the bottle is streamlined for the DOP and only those
approved can use this particular bottle. This bottle was designed by Giorgetto
Giugiaro, an Italian automotive designer who has worked with Maserati &
Lamborghini, who was inspired by the shape of the barrel and its stand!!!
So, that's the main aspect - it actually takes, atleast, 12 years to make
original Balsamic Vinegar, and it is obviously expensive! Any Balsamic Vinegar
that you buy in supermarkets, isn't the real deal! For commercial production,
I was told that this 12 years process is fast-tracked to 6 days. So yeah,
supermarket Balsamic Vinegar, isn't really the one!
Villa San Donnino
Built in 1911, the Villa is absolutely phenomenal. It was commissioned
by Lieutenant Claudio San Donnino and it later became the living example
of the Liberty Art Movement (which is a bit similar to Art Nouveau) in Italy.
What attracted me the most were the frescoes which were painted by Aroldo
Bonzagni from Cento, depicting various allegorical figures.
Acetaia Villa San Donnino (Balsamic Vinegar at Villa San Donnino)
It was beautiful to enter property of Villa San Donnino. As soon as I entered,
I was happy to see the vineyard on either sides. I also spotted rose plants
that bordered the vineyard and I was intrigued. I was told that the roses are
natural pesticides that would distract & attract pests that would normally
attack grapes! The Balsamic Vinegar manufactured here, come from the grapes
cultivated right here! The only 2 types of grapes cultivated here to be used
in Balsamic Vinegar are White Trebbiano Grapes and Red Lambrusco Grapes.
Harvesting this in late September or early October.
Soon, I went inside Villa San Donnino and there were the wooden barrels filled
with this very grape juice. There were the fresh ones and the older ones. I
saw the open, fresh ones with cloth on it, but the cloth were embroidered
napkins. I was told that every time a child was born in the family, they'd
make a new set for them and usually the cloth that covers those barrels are
embroidered with the initials of that child! That sounded so
beautiful!
.jpg)
Barrels owned by Pierce Brosnan!
.jpg)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
When the current owners purchased this property, there were 2 sets that was
already here and already filled! Those barrels are still there today. I could
see the caramalized sugar oozing through the tiniest of cracks of these
barrels. During WWII, this entire region was occupied by the German troops and
so the original owners, the San Donnino family, decided to move to Rome. Then
they chose not to return and sold the property in 1947 to the current owners,
Mr.Umberto Lonardi, who discovered these barrels. Guess what, the Balsamic
vinegar in one set of these barrels is a 100 years old and that's inside the
villa and not for the public to see!!!
The year in which the barrels were made are written on top of each barrel and
guess what, I saw barrels dating as old as 1512! The wood used to make the
barrels are locally felled and they are also made by local carpenters. Here's
something special - not all the barrels belong to the owners! The barrels
could be owned by others for whom, Acetaia Villa San Donnino would take care
of the production of the Balsamico! This is then used by the 'owner' of the
barrel for their private use. Guess whose barrel I saw here? Pierce Brosnan!!!
This was first filled in 2017, so in 2029, the first sample will be taken from
the Queen Barrel of the Brosnan set!!!
Some of the Balsamic Vinegar liquid in the barrels here are as old as 30-40
years, which have still not been taken our & packaged! The special quality
that's in production here is the extra-aged Balsamic Vinegar which are 25
years old; the regular quality is 12 years old and the packaging is different
for the 2. Then there's the very precious 100 years old one!!!
Where is Acetaia Villa San Donnino (on Google Maps)? Acetaia Villa San Danino
How to reach Acetaia Villa San Donnino? Acetaia Villa San
Donnino is about 10km from Modena. If you don't have a car, take Seta Bus No:
731 from Modena Garibaldi to San Donnino. From the bus stop Acetaia San
Donnino is 800m (11 mins walk) away.
Book a guided tour of Acetaia Villa San Donnino with tasting:
via official site of Acetaia Villa San Donnino
Ticket price of guided tour of Acetaia Villa San Donnino: €10
.JPG)
.JPG)
Vanilla Icecream with 12yrs old Balsamic Vinegar
.jpg)
.JPG)
.JPG)
MODENA HISTORIC CITY CENTER WALKING TOUR:
From Villa San Donnino, I headed to the heart of the city of Modena. A guided
walking tour of Modena took me to the UNESCO World Heritage Sites as well as a
few more sites.
History of Modena:
When it comes to Modena (& also Ferrara), all history is associated with
the Este Family. Once the Este Family had a dispute with Pope and moved their
capital from Ferrara to Modena and Ferrara was taken back by the Pope while
Modena was taken over by the Este Family.
Ducal Palace of Modena
Our first stop in Modena walking tour was the Ducal Palace of Modena. This was
originally where the medieval Este Castle, built in the 1200s, stood. Este
Family decided to built their palace at this very spot using the famous
Baroque artists & architects of the era. In 1634, the construction of the
Ducal Palace of Modena began under Bartolomeo Avanzini & Gian
Lorenzo Bernini, who were the best architects & artists in Italy then.
While this was being constructed, the construction of the Ducal Palace of
Sassuolo also began, which is about 20km away from Modena. While Ducal Palace
of Modena was the main residence of the Este Family, the Ducal Palace of
Sassualo was the summer residence.
Unfortunately the Ducal Palace of Modena isn't open to public all the time.
There are guided tours in the weekend which is the only way to visit certain
parts of the interiors of this Palace, as it is currently the Headquarters of
the National Military Academy, for all Army, Navy & Airforce, and most
places are cordoned off for the general public.
That said, the front room is open to the public. This is a memorial for all
Modenese soldiers who had laid down their lives since the 1820 till date.
Earlier, there were 2 Military Academies in the region, Savoy Military Academy
in Turin (the oldest in the world, formed in 1678) and Este Military Academy
in Modena. After WWII, both were merged and the National Military Academy in
now headquartered at Modena and National Military Research Institute is now
headquartered at Turin.
Ducal Palace of Modena is one of the most beautiful Baroque buildings in
Italy. In the facade are 2 main sculptures and one of it
represents Marcus Aemilius Lepidus, who was a consul (the highest elected
public official), during ancient Roman times. He is an important person in the
history of Emilia Romagna that one of the longest roads that run from Rimini
to Piacenza is called Via Aemilia. The other sculpture is of Hercules.
Where is the Ducal Palace of Modena (on Google Maps)? Palazzo Ducale di Modena
How to reach the Ducal Palace of Modena? 900m (12 mins walk) from Modena Railway Station
Tickets for a Guided tour of the Ducal Palace of Modena interiors: €10
Book a Guided tour of the Ducal Palace of Modena interiors: via official site of Emilia Romagna Tourism
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
Teatro Comunale di Modena Pavarotti-Freni - UNESCO Creative Cities
Network
After quickly passing by the Church of San Giorgio Modena, we were in
front of Teatro Comunale di Modena Pavarotti-Freni (Pavarotti-Freni
Theater).
Modena has a very rich, old, cultural heritage associate with Opera and
Theatre. During the annual 'Grandezze e Meraviglie' Music Festival and Modena
Organ Festival, people from all over Europe visit the city to immerse in its
music. This theatre has been named after Mirella Freni, a Soprano in Italian
Opera and Luciano Pavarotti, an Italian Film Director. While there are many
other theatres in town, but they were small, so this was built this huge
theatre in 1841. This hosts operas, concerts and ballets. There is one more
important theatre in Modena called Teatro Storchi which primarily hosts dramas
only.
There is a very interesting, expressive sculpture of Luciano Pavarotti right
at the cross-roads of
Teatro Comunale di Modena Pavarotti-Freni. There is also a museum of his
life located in his country house located about 8km from Modena, which
unfortunately I didn't have the time to visit.
Where is the Teatro Comunale di Modena Pavarotti-Freni (on Google Maps)? Pavarotti-Freni Theater
Where is the sculpture of Pavarotti in Modena (on Google
Maps)? Monumento A Luciano Pavarotti
Events & Schedules at Teatro Comunale di Modena Pavarotti-Freni: via
official site of Modena Communal Theatre
Guided tour for groups: via
official site of Modena Communal Theatre
Music Festival of Modena: Grandezze e Meraviglie' Music Festival official site
UNESCO World Heritage Sites of Modena
From Teatro Comunale di Modena Pavarotti-Freni, we headed to the Piazza Grande,
one of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites of Modena. It's too much to write in
a single blogpost, so I'll be writing another post on the UNESCO World
Heritage Sites of Modena.
Jewish Synagogue of Modena
.jpg)
Giuseppe Mazzini Square
.jpg)
Ex-Albergo Diurno underground entrance
.jpg)
Jewish Quarter of Modena:
After seeing the UNESCO Sites, the very last spot I visted in Modena was the
Piazza Giuseppe Mazzini, which is the Jewish Quarter of Modena. The history of
Judaism in Modena dates back to the 1300s. The jews were merchants, bankers
and running various businesses in Modena and were in a good position in the
society till 1600s. Many Jews preferred settling down here because, under Este
family, they were treated very well and were felt protected too!
By 1620 the marginalization of Jews began. In 1638, under Duke Francis I, the
Jewish population was completely confined to this area which later came to be
called the Jewish Quarter. This was also called the Ghetto. It became so bad
that several hundreds of Jews had to live in a very cramped space in this
quarter. The streets leading in & out of this quarter were sealed off at
night!
It was more than a century later, in late 1700s, under Napoleon Bonaparte,
these were opened up for some time, but again his rule crushed by Duke Francis
IV in 1814, who continued the oppression. Later in 1859, equality re-surfaced.
The cramped buildings of Ghetto were demolished later on, and this became
Liberty Square aka Mazzini Square, named after Giuseppe Mazzini one of the
founding fathers of unified Italy. The Synagogue here was built in 1873.
Unfortunately I didn't get to visit the interiors of the Synagogue since it
was closed when I was there. I was told there are about 60 active families who
are keeping this Synagogue functional till date.
In front of the Synagogue is the recently renovated Ex-Albergo Diurno. In the
1930's, day-hotels cropped up all over Italy incl. Modena. So, what's a
day-hotel or Albergo Diurno? It was a place for travelers to come and get
refreshed within a couple of hours, without staying the night - they could
take a shower, use the toiler, get a haircut, mani or pedi! Ofcourse, it had
been defunct for the last 3 decades and has been recently renovated &
opened as a multi-utility cultural center.
Where is the Synagogue of Modena (on Google Maps)? Comunità Ebraica di Modena e Reggio Emilia
How to reach the Synagogue of Modena? 200m (3 mins walk)
from Piazza Roma & Ducal Palace of Modena
Parco Giardino Ducale Estense - Ducal Garden & Palazzina Vigarani
Walking back from the Jewish Quarter of Modena, on the way back to my hotel, I
crossed the Parco Giardino Ducale Estense. The origins of this gardens
dates back to the 16th C, when the Palazzina Vigarani was built in 1533
by Francesco I d’Este as a place for the court’s pastimes. The current look of
the gardens date back to 19th C CE. The gardens are a public park and is open
& free for all. The Palace is open only for guided tours.
Where is the Ducal Gardens of Modena (on Google Maps)? Parco Giardino Ducale Estense
How to reach the Ducal Gardens of Modena? 350m (5 mins walk) from
Modena Railway Station. Just next to Hotel Principe (review below)
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
Ares Design - A company that customizes luxury vehicles!
.jpg)
Spotting Ford Mustang on the streets!
.JPG)
BEST HOTELS IN MODENA
Hotel Principe Modena - A Review
You're spoilt for choice in Modena. There are several excellent hotels in
Modena. I stayed at Hotel Principe Modena. Hotel Principe Modena is one of
the best hotels in Modena for 2 reasons - its closeness to the railway
station and the view from its window.
Hotel Principe Modena is located just 5 mins walk away from the railway
station. It is also very close to the Ducal Gardens of Modena and the
Ferrari Museum, located in Modena. But the best thing about this hotel is
the view from its rooms. Some rooms of the hotel overlook the Tempio
Monumentale San Giuseppe (Monumental Temple of St Joseph) and the view was
just stunning. Luckily, I visited Modena on a full moon day and the view of
Tempio Monumentale San Giuseppe at night with the backdrop of the fullmoon
was just phenomenal.
Where is Hotel Principe Modena? Hotel Principe
How to reach Hotel Principe Modena? 300m
(5 mins walk) from Modena Railway Station
Hotel Principe Modena charges: Begins at €116 for double
occupancy in a standard room
Book a room at Hotel Principe Modena: via Hotel Principe
Modena official website
BEST PLACES TO EAT IN MODENA FOR VEGETARIANS
The best thing about Italian Food is that it is, by default, vegetarian
friendly - pizza, risotto, and most things are generally vegetarian
friendly. There are a couple of purely vegan restaurants in Modena and I
chose Monari Federzoni for lunch, Erbavoglio for dinner and stopped at a
couple other places for snacks.
Balsamico e Cucina by Monari Federzoni, Modena - A Review
Like Acetaia Villa San Donnino, Acetaia Monari Federzoni is also a
Balsamic Vinegar manufacturer. Interestingly, they also have a
restaurant at the historic Albinelli Market, in the centre of Modena,
called Balsamico e Cucina. Being in a market, the vibe of eating here
is not like a restaurant and I loved it. There is some chaos all
around you and that makes it perfect! While Monari Federzoni was born
in 1912, the restaurant itself is a new addition to the Monari family.
My lunch began with a starter of Calzagatti which is a panfried
polenta cake. What makes it special here in Balsamico e Cucina is
Calzagatti with a dash of Balsamic Vinegar poured on it. The first
main course was a pumpkin soup and the second main course of
Vegetarian Lasagna. Ofcourse, both the dishes had Balsamic Vinegar in
the recipe. The taste was absolutely phenomenal, no doubt. I’d totally
recommend.
Where is Balsamico e Cucina (on Google Maps)?
Balsamico e Cucina
How to reach Balsamico e Cucina? 100m (2 mins walk) from
Piazza Grande & Modena Cathedral (Duomo di Modena)
Book at table at Balsamico e Cucina: via the
official site of Balsamico e Cucina
View of Tempio Monumentale San Giuseppe from Hotel Principe
.JPG)
Antica Pasticceria San Biagio
Albinelli Market
.jpg)
.jpg)
Antica Pasticceria San Biagio, Modena - A Review
While you’re in Modena you cannot miss the Torta delle Rose (Rose
Tart) from the Antique bakery of St.Blaise (Antica Pasticceria San
Biagio). If you’re a vegan you may have skip it, since the recipe
contains eggs & milk, but if you aren’t, try it. While the Torta
delle Rose is big dessert (1kg) for 1-2 people, a mini version of it
called Rosine, in the size of a muffin, is available too.
If you’re a vegan, apart from Torta delle Rose and Rosine, there are
tons of other desserts available here including chocolate dipped
orange, glazed chestnuts and much more.
Where is Antica Pasticceria San Biagio (on Google Maps)?
Antica Pasticceria San Biagio
How to reach Antica Pasticceria San Biagio? 500m (7 mins
walk) from Ducal Palace of Modena. 240m (3 mins walk) from
Pavarotti-Freni Theater
Antica Pasticceria San Biagio timings: 8:00-13:30 &
16:00-19:30 on weekdays; No lunch break on Saturdays. Only morning
session on Sundays.
Chocolate Festival, Modena
I was very lucky that my Modena travel dates and Modena Chocolate
Festival dates coincided! The streets are filled with tons of
varieties of chocolates and I was spoilt for choice. The most amusing
ones were the chocolates shapes like kitchen tools & utensils. It
was quite something! Chocolate Festival happens in Modena in Oct-Nov
every year, so it might be a good idea to time your visit accordingly!
When does Sciocola Chocolate Festival happen in Modena in 2025?
30 Oct - 02 Nov 2025
Erbavoglio Restaurant, Modena - A Review
Erbavoglio is a vegan & vegetarian speciality restaurant in
Modena. The vibe of the restaurant was super cool. The décor was
fantastic. The food - absolutely phenomenal. The starter was a
zucchini based dish. The taste was great, but the presentation - well,
the dish had been put in a frosting pipe and presented on the plate
like a frosting flower with beets on top! It was stunning. The first
main dish was called ‘Gold Medal’ which had roasted cabbage on
vegetable and mushroom sauce. The second main dish (yes, Italian food
has 2 main courses!) was roasted eggplant on a squash sauce. The
finale was an icecream based dessert. I got to washdown everything
with a nice glass of local white wine. The food was just phenomenal.
Absolutely phenomenal. Everything I ate was very beautifully made and
the taste was all excellent! I’d just recommend it 100% to any
vegetarian or vegan visiting Modena!
Btw, while walking to the hotel from Hotel Principe Modena I walked
across the backside of the Ducal Palace of Modena whose front I had
seen earlier in the day, from Piazza Roma.
Where is Erbavoglio Restaurant Modena (on Google Maps)? Erbavoglio - Alta Cucina Vegetale
How to reach Erbavoglio Restaurant Modena? 900m (12 mins
walk) from Modena Railway Station
Book at table at Erbavoglio Restaurant Modena: via the
official site of Erbavoglio Restaurant Modena
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
PIN IT / BOOKMARK IT NOW & READ IT LATER:
I just moved to Italy last year, and it has been a dream! I've not yet had the opportunity to visit Modena yet, but it's on my list. As a vegetarian, now I feel even more excited to have the chance to see it and eat all the delicious food there!
ReplyDelete