This article first appeared in My Travelogue by Bhushavali
BEST WEEKEND TRIP FROM MILAN
ALL ABOUT LAKE MAGGIORE
LAKE MAGGIORE vs LAKE COMO
Should you visit Lake Como or Lake Maggiore? Is there an alternative to Lake
Como? Well, everyone who knows about Italy, knows of Lake Como. Hollywood
celebrities have their villas here! But here's an equally gorgeous place
that's not as expensive, as touristy, as crowded as Lake Como - presenting
Lake Maggiore. Literally, Lake Maggiore is just 50km away from Lake Como as
the crow flies, is in a similar shape, and is actually larger in size! The
icing on the cake is that there are islands in Lake Maggiore, not only buzzing
with activity but also home to monuments that can be visited (there's just 1
almost uninhabited island in Lake Como). Furthermore, the lake falls across
the border between Italy & Switzerland! So, if you're planning to visit
Lake Como, here's a better idea, visit Lake Maggiore!
Read on for all that you need to know before visiting Lake Maggiore.
Where is Lake Maggiore? How to reach Lake Maggiore? Is Lake Maggiore worth
visiting? Things to do around Lake Maggiore, Lake Maggiore Itinerary, and
more!
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TOP 5 PLACES TO VISIT & THINGS TO DO IN LAKE MAGGIORE
DO NOTHING AT LAKE MAGGIORE
The best thing to do in Lake Maggiore is to do nothing! Lake Maggiore is
beautiful and there are many towns around Lake Maggiore where you can find a
hotel or B&B. Just relax, watch the sunrise, stroll along the waters, take
a boat trip to the islands, stroll around the islands, watch the city lights
of Stresa from the islands, and enjoy lunch/dinner in the outdoor dining area
with the view of the lake. Unwind in Lake Maggiore, leave all the stress of
life behind, and enjoy your much-needed break! Just be!
EXPLORE ARONA
Arona was our first stop in Lake Maggiore. After staying overnight at
Vercelli, our stop was at Arona to see the majestic sculpture called
Colossus of San Carlo Borromeo.
Colossus of San Carlo Borromeo:
Following the Statue of Liberty, the Colossus of San Carlo Borromeo is the
2nd tallest copper statue in the world. It is also the 3rd tallest sculpture
that could be climbed from within following the Statue of Unity and the
Statue of Liberty.
Charles Borromeo was born in the 16th C in Arona Castle. He was the
Archbishop of Milan. He was canonized in 1610 and soon after that, Sacra
Monte di San Carlo was built. The original idea was to build a series of 15
chapels with frescoes and sculptures similar to Sacri Monti di Ghiffa and
associated sites. However, only 3 chapels were made and those too, are
incomplete. The sculpture was completed in 1698, at which point of time,
this was the largest statue in the world. Much later, in the mid-19th
C, Frédéric Auguste Bartholdi stayed here to study this sculpture
extensively before designing the Statue of Liberty!
It is possible to climb the Colossus of San Carlo Borromeo. There are 2
spiral staircases to reach the top of the pedestal and then a ladder to
reach the viewpoint located at the back of the statue. Then there's another
ladder to reach the head part of the sculpture where you can see outside
through the holes of ears, eyes, and nose! It is also possible to go down to
the left hand and have a view through the book!
Where is Colossus of San Carlo Borromeo (on Google Maps)? Colossus of San Carlo Borromeo
How to reach Colossus of San Carlo Borromeo? 2.5km (30 mins walk) from Arona Railway Station
Colossus of San Carlo Borromeo Tickets: €10
Colossus of San Carlo Borromeo Timings: Varies according to the days of the week & season
Lake Maggiore Viewpoint:
Very close to the Colossus of San Carlo Borromeo is a stunning viewpoint
from where you get an impeccable view of not only Lake Maggiore but also
Angera Castle (Rocca di Angera) on the other side of the lake which is
Lombardy region! There is a doll museum inside Rocca di Angera founded in
1988 by Princess Bona Borromeo Arese. The concept reminded me much of
the Toy Museum in Mechelen, Belgium. Unfortunately, I didn't have time to
go visit this castle or its museum.
Where is Lake Maggiore Viewpoint at Arona (on Google Maps)? Piazzo San Carlo 6
Luigi Guffanti 1876:
While you're in Italy, you have to go on a cheese tasting for its incredible
varieties of cheese. What better way to do it than visit a cave where cheese
is matured?! That's what I did.
Mr.Luigi Guffanti, the great-grandfather of the current owners, decided to
season some Gorgonzola cheese. He purchased an abandoned silver mine where
the microclimate was perfect for aging the cheese..... the rest is history!
Today Luigi Guffanti cheese is exported worldwide and the varieties of
cheese have grown immensely!
The ancient mines were a part of the 15th C fortification bastion walls
around the city. In 1990, they moved to the new complex which was originally
a sausage curing cellar. Today it is possible to visit the seasoning caves
and do a guided tasting session as well.
Where is Luigi Guffanti 1876 in Arona (on Google Maps)? Luigi Guffanti 1876
How to reach Luigi Guffanti 1876? 800m (9 mins walk) from Arona Railway Station
Luigi Guffanti 1876 Guided Tour Tickets: Guided tours are done only
upon reservation via davide@guffantiformaggi.com. The prices depend on the
size of the group and the type of tour.
Luigi Guffanti 1876 Store Timings: Mon-Fri:
09:00AM to 1:00PM and 3:00PM to 6:00PM (7:00PM on Fri & Sat). Sat:
08:00AM to 1:00PM. Closed on Sundays
Where is Arona Railway Station (on Google Maps)? Arona Railway Station
How to reach Arona? Arona has a railway
station which is well-connected by trains from Milan Central. The direct
train takes about 1 hour.
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Pic Credit: ©Luigi Guffanti. Used with permission on this blog.
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VISIT ISOLA BELLA - HOME TO PALAZZO BORROMEO
From Stresa, my next stop was Stresa from where I took a boat to visit Isola
Bella. Isola Bella literally means 'Beautiful Island'. There are 8 islands on
Lake Maggiore and Isola Bella is one of the 3 very close to Stresa. There's
just 1 building on the island and that building covers the entire island -
Palazzo Borromeo - The palace of the Borromeo Family!
It was quite fascinating to watch the island palace from the boat even before
we reach there with the view of the terrace garden with sculptures as you
approach it. Till 1632, it was an all-natural island when the House of
Borromeo decided to build their palace here which took a whopping 400 years to
materialize. Today the Borromeo family still visits the island and when
they're here, there's a flag flying atop the palace! Normally, they live in
Milan.
Palazzo Borromeo Isola Bella Virtual Tour: The tour of the palace
covers about 20 rooms that doesn't include the state apartments on the top
floor which are still the private residence of the Borromeo family. Being on
an island, a lot of symbolism here is based on shells!
The tour begins with the 5 initial rooms called the
Pilgrim Room and 4 closets. Quite interestingly there are quite a few
paintings here of early 17th C CE, by Flemish Masters including Peter Snijers!
There are many more paintings in the following 2 rooms. The 3rd room is where
it gets interesting with several flower arrangments painted on hardstones,
marbles, slates & alabasters! After the 4th room is the stunning Berthier
Gallery.
Berthier Gallery is the Gallery of Paintings which has a whopping 130
paintings. There's elegant, monochromatic stucco work on the ceiling. It was
originally called the Alcove Gallery but after the visit of French General
Louis-Alexandre Berthier under Napoleon Bonaparte. Quite amusingly, at the end
of room is a bed chamber that's open to the gallery! This was a later addition
in 1828 when the royals of Piedmont - Carlo Felice and Maria Cristina. I
couldn't help but think how would it feel to wake up in the middle of the
night in this room staring at these many paintings or if at all it would be
easy to fall asleep in this room!!!
The next is the Throne Room which has the coat-of-arms made of tilework
on the floor! The throne itself is majestic and made of gilded wood. Quite
interestingly, the roof is held in place by 6 telemones (looks like gargoyles
but over/instead of the pillars & weight-bearing).
The next is the 'Medal Room' which was the state banquet room. It is
called a Medal-room because of the 10 gilded tondos that look like medals just
below the cornices under the ceiling. These medals depict the life of San
Carlo Borromeo whose Colossus is there is Arona!
The next is the most important and the largest room in the palace -
New Salon (Salone Nuovo). It fills the height of 2 floors and
rises further up! The place is duo-chromatic, so subtle and elegant. Since the
1st floor is the private residence of the royals, if they wanted, they could
look down at you as you stroll through this room!
The next is the Music Room which still has quite a few musical
instruments on display still. This room is very important because here's where
the Stresa Conference was held in 1935, prior to WWII, to
discuss the violations of the Versailles Treaty by Adolf Hitler which was
attended by Mussolini, Ramsay MacDonald, and more. This was, kind of, the last
straw to discuss peace before WWII began! The next is the
Napoleon room, where Napoleon Bonaparte and his wife Josephine
slept on the night of 17 Aug 1797. It was quite a story when Napoleon just
landed here with 60 people without forewarning, where even the royal family
wasn't here! The staff of the palace had to urgently do everything needed for
a pleasant stay of Napoleon!!!
The tour then continues to the underground floor where the first stop is some
of the dolls of the Borromeo family in showcases. The walls of all the
underground Grotto rooms are filled with shells, rocks, cool lava,
pieces of mica, and more. The water symbolism is further enhanced here with
turtles, dolphins, fishes, nymphs, and more. One of these rooms caught my attention with its sculpture of an Apsara from India! The last room is the
Tapestry room.
Then the tour continues outside to the majestic
terrace garden & theatre that we saw while coming on the boat to
the island. The most fascinating thing here - is the presence of many white
peafowls!!! The sculptures and obelisks were all created by Carlo Simonetta in
17th C CE. Right atop this is the sculpture of a unicorn as well as a
viewpoint to see the Italian-styled garden below.
One thing to keep in mind is that this place is an island and to imagine how
they built everything here is fascinating - bringing all raw materials,
bringing in the artists, sculptors, and more. Absolutely majestic and
beautiful.
Where is Stresa Railway Station (on Google Maps)? Stresa Railway Station
Where is Isola Bella - Palazzo Borromeo (on Google Maps)? Palazzo Borromeo
Where is Stresa Ferry point (on Google Maps)? Stresa Ferry point
How to reach Isola Bella - Palazzo Borromeo? Boat from Stresa Ferry point
Isola Bella Palazzo Borromeo Tickets: €20 (combined tickets with Isola Madre & Rocca di Angera also available)
Isola Bella Palazzo Borromeo Timings: Open only from March to November. 10:00AM to 16:30 (or 17:30)
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VISIT ISOLA MADRE OR ISOLA SUPERIORE O DEI PESCATORI
Like Isola Bella, Isola Madre is also an island owned by the House of
Borromeo. Originally called Isola Saint Vittore, they got this island 2
centuries before Isola Bella, in 1501 CE. The palace was built there in the
late 16th C CE. While the specialty of Isola Bella is the palace, the
specialty of Isola Madre is its gardens! The gardens of Isola Madre kept
evolving from 16th C to 19th C! The garden covers an area of 8 hectares and
has both English & French styles areas. There are both white peacocks
& Indian peafowl roaming around freely here and I heard, there's an
adorable young mix of the two!!! Too bad I didn't get to see it!
Unlike Isola Bella & Isola Madre, Isola dei Pescatori is a relatively
larger island but still just 375m x 100m. Isola dei Pescatori literally means
Fishermen's island and it has always been a fishing village. The tiny island
actually has a residing population of 25 people and has their homes! Apart
from that, there are many shops, restaurants as well as a few hotels &
B&Bs that cater to the tourists.
Unfortunately, I didn't get to visit Isola Madre and I only spent a little bit
of time on Isola dei Pescatori except for having my dinner at one of the
restaurants there (more on it, below).
Where is Isola Madre (on Google Maps)? Isola Madre
Where is Isola dei Pescatori (on Google Maps)? Isola dei Pescatori
How to reach Isola Madre & Isola dei Pescatori? Boat from Stresa Ferry point
Isola Madre Tickets: €17 (combined tickets with Isola Madre & Rocca di Angera also available)
Isola Madre Timings: Open only from March to November. 10:00AM to 16:30 (or 17:30)
HEAD TO GHIFFA - ONE OF THE UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITES IN PIEMONTE
When I looked into the map after setting up the itinerary of Piemonte, my
first thought was, "Well, the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Sacri Monti di
Ghiffa is on the banks of Lake Maggiore!". I had to amend the itinerary to
fit in Ghiffa. I'd say visiting Sacri Monti di Ghiffa is one of the top
things to do in Lake Maggiore. It gives a feel of Lake Maggiore that the
bigger towns like Stresa or Arona do not give! Sacri Monti di Ghiffa is
called the Balcony on the Landscape and you can understand why.
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BEST LAKE MAGGIORE HOTELS
Where to stay in Lake Maggiore? One of the best places to stay in
Lake Maggiore would be Borromeo's Dream House in Isola Bella or one of the hotels or B&Bs in Isola dei Pescatori. I can imagine how it might feel like, comparing it to staying on Pampus Island, off the coast of Amsterdam. After the last day-trip-tourist-boat leaves and the island would be totally silent with just the sounds of the water and wind! Unlike Pampus Island, there's a living population here who you will share the island with, overnight.
Other than that, there are many hotels & B&Bs at all price points in the major towns around Lake Maggiore like Arona, Stresa, etc.
BORROMEO'S DREAM HOUSE - SPEND THE NIGHT ON AN ISLAND
Borromeo's Dream House is a section of Palazzo Borromeo in Isola Bella. The 9 rooms which were originally the fishermen's houses have been renovated and restored with all modern amenities to host guests! The rooms are actually apartments, which are equipped with a kitchen as well! 7 of the rooms are junior suits that have dual occupancy while 2 have 4-people occupancy. I did not stay here and didn't even see it, so I cannot review this for you!
Where is Borromeo's Dream House (on Google Maps): Palazzo Borromeo
Book a room online: official website of Borromeo's Dream House
Borromeo's Dream House room rates: Room rates begin at €190 for double occupancy in Suite Via del Voltone, the cheapest of the 9 suites.
HOTEL LA PALMA - A REVIEW - ROOM WITH A VIEW OF LAKE MAGGIORE
I stayed at Lake Maggiore at Hotel La Palma at Stresa. The view of Lake
Maggiore from Hotel la Palma reminded me much of Lac de l'Eau d'Heure in
Belgium. When you're booking a room here make sure to get one on one of the upper floors with a view of the lake which is just the best way to enjoy Lake Maggiore. Unfortunately, I hardly had a few hours here in the hotel between my check-in & check-out!
Where is Hotel La Palma Stresa (on Google Maps): Hotel La Palma
How to reach Hotel La Palma Stresa? Stresa is about 20km from Arona. There's a direct train that connects Milan to Stresa that goes via Arona. It takes about 20 mins by train and about 1:10 hours from Milan.
Book a room online: official website of Hotel La Palma
Hotel La Palma Stresa phone no: +39 0323 32401
Hotel La Palma Stresa room rates: Room rates begin at €200 for double occupancy in a standard room
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BEST LAKE MAGGIORE RESTAURANTS
RESTAURANT VERBANO
I stayed in Lake Maggiore one night and had my dinner at Restaurant Verbano in Isola dei Pescatori. Here's the thing, being islands & lakefront, the
restaurants in this region specialize in seafood! As a vegetarian, I was
very, very skeptical if I'll have something to eat at all and if I do, if
would be tasty at all! But the restaurant Verbano exceeded my expectations
and on this trip to Piemonte, this was perhaps the best restaurant I ate at!
The 4-course meal began with a starter of roasted root vegetables and
continued with a soup with roasted potatoes & spinach. The main course
was a very very yummilicious celeriac steak! The dessert was vanilla ice
cream with a butterfly-shaped chocolate topping! I couldn't believe I was
having the Best vegan dinner in Piemonte, in a restaurant on a tiny island
in Lake Maggiore! Absolute awesomeness.
LAKE MAGGIORE PRACTICAL DETAILS
LAKE MAGGIORE ITINERARY
If you're visiting in the winter, set aside a day or two for skiing in the Alps to the north of Lake Maggiore. Otherwise,
Day 1 - Arona - Colossus of San Carlo & musuems
Day 2 - Stresa, Isola Madre & Isola Bella
Day 3 - Sacri Monti di Ghiffa and Sacri Monti di Domodossala or Orta
HOW TO VISIT MAGGIORE FROM ROME?
Take a train to Milan and then take another train to Arona or Stresa.
LOCAL TRANSPORT IN LAKE MAGGIORE
The train that connects Milan to Geneva goes via Lake Maggiore and stops at Arona, Stresa, and Domodossala. So it is very easy to reach Lake Maggiore from Milan on a day trip or weekend trip. Local transport in Lake Maggiore is best done using a Maggiore Centro one-day travel pass which covers local buses, cable car, as well as ferries.
BOOK YOUR LAKE MAGGIORE TOURS & TICKETS HERE
MY PIEMONTE TRAVELOGUE
Click the links below to read my other travel articles on Piemonte
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Hello you have amazing blog, thanks for sharing it
ReplyDeleteI visited a friend at Lago Maggiore last summer but unfortunately did not manage to do any sightseeing in the area. We had good food, went swimming and did some walks. Now I know what I have missed. I have to make sure to visit Luigi Guffanti for some cheese tasting, when I go there next time. Wonderful pictures.
ReplyDeleteLago Maggiore is my favorite lake here. It’s nice that you were able to visit and see Isola Bella too. We missed Arona the last time, but we're just 2 hours away so I will make sure to see it next time. Palazzo Borromeo is wonderful right.
ReplyDeleteI have visited neither Lake Como nor Lake Maggiore! So, when I decide to go, I will definitely give a go at Lake Maggiore. I would love to visit Luigi Guffanti caves and take cheese tasting tour. Apart from enjoying the views of the lake and taking a boat tour, climbing the spiral stairs at Colossus of San Carlo Borromeo statue and taking in the views from the top would be nice! :-).
ReplyDeleteAn enjoyable weekend getaway would be ideal at the lovely Lake Maggiore. You can unwind completely by taking in the views while sightseeing. The close-by attractions make it appear more fun to explore the lake. There is no denying the inner beauty of the Palazzo Borromeo Isola Bella.
ReplyDeleteI have read so much about Lake Como and missed going there when in Italy. But now after reading about Lake Maggiore we would rather settle for this. Do not love the crowds these days and this seems perfect. Watching the sunrise, strolling around the islands and just relaxing sounds so appealing. Would love to take the boat ride to Isola Bella and visit Palazzo Borromeo. A visit to Ghiffa would be interesting.
ReplyDeleteI have visited Lake Como and Lake Garda, but not yet Lago Maggiore. Indeed, it's just a stone throw away from Como, at 50 km away. I've even seen it from the air, from the descent path to Milano Airport. Isola Bella looks like a proper gem, I would love to check it out and explore that beautiful Palazzo Borromeo. The Music Room sounds particularly interesting. Arona sounds like a very relaxing place to just take in the views of the lake from the viewpoint.
ReplyDeleteHappy to know that there are so many things to see and do in Lake Maggiore and yes, a trip to Luigi Guffanti 1876 is a must. I love cheese and it would be exciting to visit these seasoning caves. A guided tasting session sounds awesome.
ReplyDeleteIsola Bella looks stunning too. Will make sure to include it on our itinerary should we have a chance to visit. Thank you for sharing this.
I haven't been to Lake Como, but it looks like Lake Maggiore is as beautiful as Lake Como. Like you said, I could see its similar shape, without too many villages around the shore. I'm impressed with the Berthier Gallery. I don't think I've seen a room that size with so many paintings on the wall before. Sacri Monti di Ghiffa looks unique. It's hard to miss this UNESCO World Heritage Site when visiting Lake Maggiore. And I will make sure to stop at Luigi Guffanti cheese. Their gorgonzola cheese looks delicious. I guess I have to look for them at the supermarket.
ReplyDeleteLake Maggiore is such a fascinating place home to beautiful islands. I'm totally swooned by the divine architecture of Palazzo Borromeo ordained with frescoes, medals and paintings by famous artists. And I would love to tour the rooms each bearing significance.Strolling in exotic the gardens of Isola Madre would be such an amazing experience.And climbing up the stairs of Colossus of San Carlos Borromeo to catch a spectacular view wouId be magical.
ReplyDeleteI would love to go cheese tasting in the silver mine turned cheese cellars of authentic Luigi Guffanti 1876. And of course not to miss the UNESCO world heritage sites of Sacri Monti Di Ghiffa. And the room with a view at Hotel La Palma is so relaxing!