After seeing the step-wells at Adalaj, Dada Harir and of course Rani Ki vav, which had long, corridor-like steps, finally, I got to see Modhera that had alternated horizontal and vertical steps! 

The sculptural detail in this temple was beyond my comprehension, beyond words. Sun Temple Modhera plan has 3 major sections - The pond at the front called Suraj Kund or Ram Kund, the dancing area in the centre called Nrutya Mandap and the sanctum sanctorum called the Guda Mandap. Beside the pond were these 2 pillars. The original location of these pillars is not this though. It was kept here by the ASI. The best part is the on-site museum as well, maintained by ASI.

Just behind the stepwell is the Nrutya Mandapa. In simple words, I was flabbergasted with the beauty of the mandapa. It is believed that earlier only the Pond and the temple existed and Nritya Mandapa was built a bit later in the same century. It is just a hall with several pillars and an entrance on all 4 sides. The entrance has some exquisite toran designs. Each and every pillar has several layers of panels of various genres. A layer of geometric designs, a layer of florals, a layer of humans, a layer of bigger humans, a layer of elephants etc etc etc!!! I was there for about an hour and I got lost!!! The ceiling design was also another piece of art. Each and every section was unique!! Some sections even had panels of scenes from Ramayana, erotic scenes and more!!! I actually stopped taking photographs and just sat in the middle of the mandapa, speechless and awestruck!!!

After the Suraj Kund, and Nrutya Mandap, over to Guda Mandap or the Sanctum Sanctorum now. This is obviously an east-facing structure dedicated to Sun God, facing the rising sun. Very similar to the Nrutya Mandapa, every pillar of the sanctum sanctorum was an intricate piece of art by itself as well. The outer structure is basically a rectangle, but actually a multi-faceted star-shaped structure. Each facet has a major sculpture. Either an Ashta dik Balaka or Aditya or Devi. An Aditya is identified as a straight standing sculpture. There are 12 of those. An Ashta dik Balaka aka Lokpalaka is identified as a tribanga (tri-fold) posture. Technically there should be only 8 of those. But here quite unusally there are 10! Then there are the female figures called Gauri-s or Devi-s. These are just the major sculptures, in the facets. Then there are several panels above and below them - one dedicated to other gods & scenes from epics, one dedicated to humans, one for elephants, one for lion face etc... There was this one sculpture of a woman, turned around, and twisting to show her face in the front. She has also folded a leg to her back and held it with her hand. I loved that sculpture and tried to pose just like that in front of that. Spot that sculpture atop me???

In the exteriors of the sanctum sanctorum, where those sculptures of Aditya, Lokpala and Gauri are seen, just below them are those several panels. One of them has little humans in them. Here are some close-ups of that panel. Beginning with the elephant panel. Notice the little humans doing acrobatics holding the trumpet of the elephants?!!

A very detailed, advanced guidebook about Modhera Sun Temple called 'The Sun Temple at Modhera - A Monograph of Architecture & Iconography' has been written by Wibke Lobo of Museum für Indische Kunst, Berlin - Museum for Indian Art (expanded & renamed now as Museum für Asiatische Kunst). The book is available to read for free via IGNCA's official website. It is a very comprehensive, and the first-ever in-depth, detailed book written about the architecture, sculptures & iconography of Sun Temple Modhera and it is a 360-pages book.

Modhera Sun Temple Guide Book - via IGNCA (downloads/opens as PDF)

8:00AM to 6:00PM everyday

Vadodara Railway Station to Modhera Sun Temple: 212km via Nadiad, Ahmedabad

The best way to go from Ahmedabad to Modhera Sun Temple is by car. It can be done as a day trip from Ahmedabad with a hired car. 

By public transport, the best option is to take a train from Ahmedabad to Mehsana and then a bus from Mehsana to Modhera.

Modhera is a very small town where you may find small restaurants to eat. The nearest bigger town to find good restaurants and hotels to stay in is Mehsana. The next option and the nearest option for luxury hotels is to stay in Gandhinagar or Ahmedabad.

While in summer it can be super sunny (as much as 50°C), it is the time when the water level is the lowest and the step-wells cast their best light & shadow. That said, if you aren't used to that kind of heat, it is probably better to skip summer which is Apr-June in this region. Anytime between July and March is a good time to visit Modhera. The best time to visit is definitely November to February when the Rann Utsav festival also happens at Patan.

There is no direct contact number of Modhera Sun Temple. The best way to contact Sun Temple Modhera would be via the superintendent Archaeologist of the Vadodara Circle under which Modhera Sun Temple comes. 

ASI Vadodara contact number +91 (0)265 2429323. 

ASI Vadodara email: circlevad.asi@gmail.com.

Dedicated to Prof. Swaminathan & Co...