As I said in my last post about Pichavaram Mangroves, I recently went to Chidambaram for a friend's wedding. The evening of the wedding, I went to 2 temples - one place where everyone else would go and another place where no one else would go!
Pic Courtesy: Ryan - Flickr: Chidambaram temple columns, CC BY 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons
CHIDAMBARAM THILLAI NATARAJAR TEMPLE
CHIDAMBARAM TEMPLE SPECIALTY
Named Thillai after the plant Thillai which grows excessively at Pichavaram. This place is also called Perumbatra Puliyur. Remember Karur Thevar Samadhi from one of my previous posts? He had referred to this place as 'Enbellam urugum anbartham kootatthu ennaiyum punarppavan koil', which means 'This is the temple where the Lord embraces all his devotees who pray his with ultimate devotion, including me'. CHIDAMBARAM NATARAJAR TEMPLE HISTORY
This place as a sacred place ever since time immemorial, however the actual temple construction took over a long period from Pallava, Pandya, Chola, Vijayanagara and Nayaks. It is said to have been begun to built by the Pallavas - Simhaverma Pallava aka Iranyaverma Pallava. Later on during the Chola dynasty, this temple was further developed by 2nd Kulothunga Chola, Vikrama Chola, 3rd Kulothunga Chola, during 11th to 13th C AD.
CHIDAMBARAM NATARAJAR TEMPLE ARCHITECTURE
The temple is in an area of 51 acres. Yeah, its a sprawling space, which is well lit and in that space during evenings I spotted several school and college kids with their books, studying!!!
Like most other temples, this too has 4 entrances with a towering Raja Gopurams upon all 4. Each of those are 135 ft tall with 7 stories. Each entrance itself is 40 feet high. I entered this temple always from the Eastern Entrance, thanks to the location of my hotel!
CHIDAMBARAM TEMPLE SCULPTURES
As I walked to the in, I couldn't help but notice the gorgeous 108 karanas (poses) of Bharathanayam sculpted on either sides as reliefs. It was marvellous! That was not all, just above each karana was an inscription of 2 lines, explaining that karana!!! Some of the Karana names include, Adhikrantham, Viruchikakuthitham, Vishnukrantham!!!
As I walked to the in, I couldn't help but notice the gorgeous 108 karanas (poses) of Bharathanayam sculpted on either sides as reliefs. It was marvellous! That was not all, just above each karana was an inscription of 2 lines, explaining that karana!!! Some of the Karana names include, Adhikrantham, Viruchikakuthitham, Vishnukrantham!!!
CHIDAMBARAM TEMPLE FRESCOES
Pic Courtesy: Richard Mortel from Riyadh, Saudi Arabia - CC BY 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Left Pic Courtesy: Richard Mortel from Riyadh, Saudi Arabia - CC BY 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Pic Courtesy: By Ryan from Toronto, Canada - CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
SHRINES OF CHIDAMBARAM NATARAJAR TEMPLE
The main deity here is Lord Shiva at his dancing best as Lord Nataraja. The Goddess here is Sivakami Amman. The other shrines here at the outer circum-ambulation passages are of Mukkuruni Vinayakar, Karpaka Vinayakar, Subrahmaniyar, Somasundarar Navalingam (The 9 Lingams prayed by the Navagraha (9 planets)) etc. There is a centrally placed Temple Tank.
If you get into the inner circum-ambulation passage through the eastern side, the first thing to be noticed on either sides is the Purushaa Mirugam (human faced, animal bodied) sculptures. The inner passage has this most important place elevated platform called Narthana Sabhai or The Dance Court. Its hard to miss, thanks to its amazingly intricate sculptures. Every pillar was unique and it was all filled with several several little figures and each figure was hardly the size of a finger!!! And the best part, figures in that size were dancing!!!!!
Beside Nritta Sabha was the Sarabeshwarar shrine. Remember, the Sarabeshwarar who was the specialty of the Madambakkam temple? Later on there were shrines of Nalvar, Mallikarjunar, Dakshinamurthy, 63 Nayanmars etc.
This is a unique temple that houses both the shrines of Siva and Vishnu together. The Lord Vishnu here is called Govindaraja Perumal. Quite unusually the Lord Nataraja here is seen facing south.
This is a unique temple that houses both the shrines of Siva and Vishnu together. The Lord Vishnu here is called Govindaraja Perumal. Quite unusually the Lord Nataraja here is seen facing south.
CHIDAMBARAM DEEKSHITHAR (DIKSHITAR)
The priests here in this temple are unique when compared to the priests else where. Here they are called Deekshithars. Both men and women have a side bun while regular priests have a back pony. They were 3000 in number or rather 2999 with the 3000th as Lord Nataraja himself. They're called the Thillai Moovayiram (3000) Deekshitharkal. But now only 300 exist today!!!
PANCHA SABHAI - KANAKA SABHAI (PORCHABAI / PONNAMBALAM) AT CHIDAMBARAM NATARAJA TEMPLE
There are 2 main specialties of this temple. One is that this is one of the 'Pancha Sabhai's or the 5 Courts, and this one is called the Kanaka Sabhai (The Golden Hall). It has 18 pillars to denote the 18 Puranas.
There are 2 main specialties of this temple. One is that this is one of the 'Pancha Sabhai's or the 5 Courts, and this one is called the Kanaka Sabhai (The Golden Hall). It has 18 pillars to denote the 18 Puranas.
What are the Pancha Sabhai? Where are they located? The Porchabai (Gold) is here in Chidambaram Thillai Natarajar Temple. The other 4 courts are Velli Sabhai (Silver Hall) at Madurai Meenakshi Amman Temple, Rathina Sabhai (Hall of Gems) at Thiruvalankadu Vadaranyeswarar Temple, Thamira Sabhai (Brass Hall) at Tirunelveli Nellaiyappar Temple and Chithira Sabhai (Hall of paintings) at Kutralam Kutralanathar Temple.
CHIDAMBARA RAGASIYAM (CHIDAMBARAM TEMPLE SECRET)
PANCHA BHOOTHA STHALAM - AAGAYA LINGAM
The other specialty is that this is one of the 'Pancha Bootha Kshetra' or the 'Temples of 5 Elements of Nature', and this one is a 'Aagaya Lingam' (Sky). To see that special place we had to take a ticket of Rs.50. Then once inside, there were a few layers of golden Vilva Flowers hung onto the ceiling. This is to depict that Lord's not here in any form but totally formless in the sky.
What are the Pancha Bhoota Sthalam? Where are they located? The Akasha Lingam (Sky) is here in Chidambaram Thillai Natarajar Temple. The temples associated with the 4 elements of nature are Prithivi Lingam (Earth) at Kanchipuram Ekambareswarar Temple, Appu Lingam (Water) at Thiruvanaikaval Jambukeswarar Temple, Agni Lingam (Fire) at Thiruvannamalai Arunachaleswarar Temple (which is why Girivalam is popular there when the huge fire is built once a year), and Vayu Lingam (Air) at Srikalahasthi Temple.
The Chidambara Ragasiyam is is considered either considered symbolic - the secret of God being omnipresent and represented by emptiness; or bit more spiritual & literal - that the secret, true physical form of the Lord that only saints & monks can see here.
If you get lucky with the timing, you may spot a priest, just outside the Shrine, performing rituals on a tiny Spatika Lingam!
Pic Courtesy: Richard Mortel from Riyadh, Saudi Arabia - CC BY 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons
ANANTHEESWARAR TEMPLE, CHIDAMBARAM
A LESSER KNOWN TEMPLE IN CHIDAMBARAM
I had information with me that this temple was about a km and a half from the Thillai Natarajar Temple. I was planning to walk up the distance, but I had no idea as of which direction I had to walk. I enquired a local with whom I am now very disappointed. He said, it isn't at a walkable distance and asked me to hire an auto. I did and as the auto went about, I knew he was circling, he practically took the 3 sides of a square to reach from one end of a road to another. I was literally in a fit of anger when I reached this temple!!!
Well, but then, I really couldn't see much of this temple, thanks to the sunset and almost no lighting. This temple is a bit dilapidated when compared to the Thillai Natarajar.
The specialty of the temple is the shrine of Raja Chandikesar, which is present only here and no where else. The shrine id located separately at the left as soon as you enter the temple. The Uchi Kaala Poojai (Noon Puja) is considered auspicious. The wall on all 4 sides were unique with a limestone and brick structure like in Muruganatheswarar Temple, than the regular granite structure.
HOW TO REACH CHIDAMBARAM NATARAJAR TEMPLE & ANANTHEESWARAR TEMPLE
On Google Maps: Thillai Natarajar Temple, Anantheeswarar Temple
Easily walkable from Chidambaram Railway Station.
Nearest railway station to Chidambaram Natarajar Temple: Chidambaram (located 1.6km away)
Chennai to Chidambaram distance and route: 220 km via ECR, Pondicherry, Cuddalore
Trichy to Chidambaram distance and route: 157 km on NH227 via Jayamkondan, Palayamkottai
Trichy to Chidambaram distance and route: 157 km on NH227 via Jayamkondan, Palayamkottai
Pondicherry to Chidambaram distance and route: 70 km via Cuddalore
Thanjavur to Chidambaram distance and route: 115 km via Kumbakonam
HOTELS IN CHIDAMBARAM
Hotels, dorms, lodges, rooms in Chidambaram at all price points are available at Chidambaram town.
CHIDAMBARAM TEMPLE TIMINGS
6:00AM to 12:00Noon and 5:00PM to 10:00PM
Pooja Timings at Chidambaram Thillai Natarajar Temple: 06:00AM, 07:00AM, 7:45AM, 10:00AM, 11:30AM, 5:15PM, 07:00PM, 09:00PM
CHIDAMBARAM THILLAI NATARAJAR TEMPLE CONTACT NUMBER
G Sundara Deekshithar : +91 9443635280
Beautiful narration Bhusha. Got to visit the temple sometime.
ReplyDeletewww.rajniranjandas.blogspot.com
Rs.50 collected by the deekshithars is exhorbitant.
ReplyDeleteIf you fall prey, they snap out huge money from you saying speical rituals etc.,
Take care on that.
Lovely pictures and nice description.
ReplyDeletedid you check out the nadi-jothidam while you were there?
ReplyDelete@Niranjan,
ReplyDeleteDo visit, you'll like it for sure.... :)
@Srini,
I don't think this Rs.50 is exhorbidant. And that's only for a closer view of the Aagaya Lingam. Free view is from a little farther...
@Team G,
Thanks dears.. :)
@Ganesh,
No dear. I am not a believer of those!!!
@
Really nice blog, very well written. Especially the night pic of the temple is simply awesome.
ReplyDeletebeautiful photos with nice narration
ReplyDeletethanks busha
Marvellous temple and photos!
ReplyDeleteNice post. Chidamabaram is such a marvelous temple. Visited about a year ago but it was night time hence missed out on many salient aspects. Plan to visit again on a day trip. Your post will be very useful guide.
ReplyDelete@Pooja,
ReplyDeleteThank you so much dear.. :)
@Krishna,
Thanks Krish... :)
@Ash,
Thanks love.. :)
@Ram Sir,
Oh... Do visit in day time, you need a whole day to see each n every sculptural aspect of the temple....
Nice article, It is quite amazing to know that the Chidambaram Temple has many unknown and interesting facts. Read this interesting article that enlights on the those interesting facts of the Chidambaram Temple.
ReplyDeletehttp://www.ishtadevata.com/blog/thillai-nataraja-temple-shiva-vishnu-reside-together.html
Good to know about Chidambaram. It is a small industrial conurbation well-known for its historic shrines and great architectural inheritance. It is famous for religious significance for Hindus. You can check out many other places to visit in Chidambaram.
ReplyDelete